Monday, March 8, 2010

White-Chopped Chicken

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White chopped chicken, the most common way to cook a good chicken, Cantonese-style.

(Update: I had an interesting conversation with a Chinese cook 9/3/10 on cooking white chopped chicken and he insisted that the boiled chicken must be fully dunked into a bucket of room temp water until it sinks--apparently the chicken floats after it is boiled--which takes about 10 minues. This method is widely practised in Malaysia and Singapore and I'm not sure if they do this in Hong Kong and southern China. My mom, who's from southern China and had lived in Hong Kong for years never dunked her boiled chicken in water.)

I am almost embarassed to post this but I know there is a handful of mostly young people who have no idea how to cook this most popular and common Chinese chicken home dish. White chopped chicken is just boiled chicken--looks white*--that's chopped, not cut, not sliced, to pieces. Easy. And yet not. The easy part is in the boiling but the hard part is getting a chicken good enough to cook this way. The chicken has to be mature (at least 4 months old) and fed on a diet of corn and not processed commercial feed.

The younger generation (to me, that's anyone under 35) has a very different standard for white chopped chicken. Because of Hainan chicken rice, which is made with cheap farmed broilers that are about 8 weeks old, many younger people who have never eaten home-reared mature chickens prefer farmed chicken. They have grown up eating tender, slippery-smooth meat and skin and they don't mind the bland taste and mushy texture of farmed chickens. They don't realise that the savory taste of the chicken comes from the chicken rice sauce and not the chicken. Chicken rice sauce is a blend of soy sauce, oil and msg.

Those of us who grew up eating home-reared chicken search and long for the taste of a home-grown broiler fed on corn. Some may even remember the rare capon (yim gai), a castrated rooster reared specially for CNY. A capon is another class above the mature home-reared broilers. Castrated roosters need to be reared for as long as 7 to 9 months but because they are castrated, they grow big without growing tough and fat deposit is minimal compared to a hen of that age. It is rare to find a castrated rooster now because the skills in castrating a rooster is lost and it is uneconomical to raise a capon because it takes 7 to 9 months, compared to 4 months for a home-reared broiler and 56 days for farmed broilers.

Mature corn-fed chicken is utterly different from the chickens fed on processed feed. Even the color of the meat and skin is different, the home-reared chickens having a shiny yellow skin and pink healthy meat while farmed chickens have white flesh and meat. I would never cook white chopped chicken with a farmed chicken. I go to the ends of the town in search of home-reared chicken if I want to cook white chopped chicken. Home-reared chicken is so special that if you ask the seller how to cook the chicken, she'll without hesitation tell you to boil it. She'll protest in horror if you mention that you'll roast or braise her home-grown chicken. The point is, as any cook will tell you, the better and fresher the quality of an ingredient, the less fuss should be made in cooking it.

In Hong Kong (and the southern part of China, I think), white chopped chicken is served with a ginger and spring onion dip. My parents have always added soy sauce to this ginger-spring onion dip. I used to wonder why my friends' moms and the restaurants in Hong Kong don't serve their ginger-spring onion dips with soy sauce too. I still don't know anyone who does the dip my parents' way. I prefer the dip with soy sauce because it does taste better than with plain salt. In the last few years, I've learnt to add 'sand ginger' to the dip too, a tip from my friend L who gave me a sand ginger plant. Sand ginger has a stronger, different scent than ordinary ginger and perks up the dip beautifully. Two other dips I tend to like eating my plain boiled chicken with are oyster sauce and chili-lime sauce.

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Sand ginger grows well in sandy soils and my soil isn't sandy so the ginger is knotty instead of bulbous.

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Ginger spring onion dip with salt.

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Ginger spring onion dip with soy sauces.

Forget about soaking your home-reared boiled chicken in cold water, as done with Hainan chicken rice chicken. Plain boiled chicken is NOT Hainan chicken. I've learnt that with a 4 or 5 month-old chicken, no matter how long you soak the chicken in, it'll never have the slippery smooth texture of a farmed chicken. It shouldn't. You are to enjoy the sweet, flavorful, wonderful aromatic taste of mature corn-fed chicken in all its meaty, oily, tough glory. You are to chew on the meat, even eat the thick slippery skin and sip the soup the chicken was boiled in and be reminded that the Chinese sure know how to cook well, even if it's just boiled chicken. And if you haven't eaten a real home-reared mature chicken, in my opinion, you have no idea what you are missing.

Don't serve boiled chicken like you would roasted chicken. It needs to be chopped, bones and all, and served with rice. Just in case you have leftovers, sprinkle the chicken with plenty of coarse salt and if like, you can add some Chinese sao xin wine or even brandy. Cover with cling film and store in the fridge. The next day, you can re-heat by steaming or leave it to room temperature. That would be xen ji, salted chicken. I am drooling.

*If you haven't been in the sun and your skin is pale, you'll very likely be labelled a "white chopped chicken".

White Chopped Chicken (feeds 6-8)

1 whole home-reared chicken, at least 2.5 kg with skin on

1. Boil a pot of water. It's good to get a pot that the chicken can just fit into. If the pot's too big, you need a lot of water and the stock will be too diluted for soup.

2. When the water boils, put the chicken in breast-side down. The water should just about cover the chicken. Cover pot. When the water comes to a boil again, lower the heat until the water just simmers gently with low bubbles (boiling the chicken will make it tough). For a chicken of 2 kg, boil for about 10 to 15 minutes, for a 2.5 kg, about 12 to 20 minutes. If, unfortunately, your chicken is younger, then reduce the time by 5 minutes. Switch the fire off and let chicken sit, covered, in the water for about 45 minutes. I use a glass pot so the heat is retained for a long time.

3. Remove the chicken and either a) soak it in a large bowl of ice cold water for 10 minutes to tighten the skin so that it has a nice firm bite b) let cool unsoaked. Chop by first jointing the legs, the wings and the breast, then chop these into smaller pieces. You need a very sharp heavy Chinese cleaver to do a good job.

Serve chopped chicken with this dip:

Ginger Spring Onion Dip
fresh ginger, about 30 to 40 g
a small piece of sand ginger, if available
2-3 stalks of spring onions
1 t salt or 2 T light soy sauce (I like Maggi's) + 1 T dark soy sauce
3 T oil
a few drops of sesame oil if like

1. Scrape the skin off the ginger. The traditional way to mince ginger is to smash it with the flat side of the cleaver and then use the thick blade of the cleaver (the upper side) to mince the ginger finely. This way, the ginger gets minced and smashed at the same time. If you use the sharp side of the cleaver, you'll get minced but hard bits of ginger.

You can use the mortar and pestle but the juice will be pounded out from the ginger.

Cut the spring onions finely. Put ginger and spring onions into a small bowl. Add the salt if using. Some restaurants sneakily add msg too.

2. Heat the oil up until very hot. Drop a small piece of ginger into the oil and if it sizzles immediately, the oil is ready. Pour the hot oil over the spring onions and ginger. If not using salt, add the soy sauces now. Add sesame oil if using. Stir well.

19 comments:

javapot said...

drooling at your ginger sauce. must say i can't make how my grandma makes it. sounds easy to make but really takes a lot of skill/practise, especially to get really 'wat' (smooth) meat.

Anonymous said...

im stuck in the ofis on a rainy day and by just looking at the pic of the chicken, just sends my tummy growling in hunger..

Mel Chan said...

White chopped chicken is absolutely a favourite in my family!! Thanks for the recipe! btw what is actually the difference with the Hainanese Chicken? I always thought that they are the same.

zurin said...

This is my absolute favourite chicken dish! NO OTHER. I first made this in London from a cookbook by Kenneth Lo. it was just called plain 'boiled chicken'. All teh while I thought it was the same way the hainanese do their chicken rice. until i saw on tv where they keep plunging d poor chikn in and out of the pot.

Kenneth's instructions on boiled chkn are just like yours too...boil for a certain number of minutes and let stand for the rest of the time...so simple and soo flavourful.. I agree the farm chkns are so soft and flabby...I cant stand them but at best I can get skinny kampung ones here..i wish tehy had fatter kampung chkns though.

Precious Pea said...

Yumyum...this is my family's favourite too! The dip itself is good enuff to go with rice.

ssblurqueen said...

Thanks for the recipe. I thought Hainanese Chicken is synonymous to white chopped chicken; that's how we order our chicken when we are at any of the chicken rice stalls. I will definitely give this recipe a try. Blur as I am, somehow I find your recipes always work :)

Anonymous said...

You are killing me! It's impssible to find mature corn fed chicken where I live.

Sonia (Nasi Lemak Lover) said...

I also learnt to add sand ginger in dipping sauce recently, taught by my sister-in-law, and I have a small plant in my small garden. I cook and serve almost the same way like you, simple yummy !

Johnathan Oh said...

Woohoo~! Its one of my best loved dish! But alas, I havent really succeeded making it on my own .. yet! Great job Terri. White chop chicken...hehehe.. that's an interesting name :p

Jade said...

oh...real chicken...this blog really gets the homesickness going..haha..I'm in uni in England. explains the deprivation :(

Anonymous said...

I make this with free range chicken as this is the best I can get. With your cooking times, I wonder, is it still pink in the middle. I have the horrors of eating chicken meat that is still pink. I must admit I cook it a little longer. My MIL taught me a sauce that my husband cannot do without for this chicken. It consists of finely chopped coriander leaves or parsley, red onions. Fry a little diced garlic and ginger in oil until fragrant and pour that over the chopped herbs and onion. Add oyster sauce, soy sauce and a touch of sesame oil. Mix well and serve with the chicken. I so miss my Asian food as I am now in UK. Got here a couple of weeks ago and still settling in. Haven't found my local Asian grocery store yet. Surviving on Tescos, Sainsburys and Mark and Spencer meals.

Anonymous said...

i love sand ginger it is yummy compared to regular ginger. store bought white chicken doesn't have a chance in my household

NEE said...

i love your post with this educational write up on food. thought that is so interesting. never knew about rearing up to 9 months and castrating some more.

yeah remind me to cook this for us. sometimes something simple yet tasty can be forgotten. the dip looks yum, will book mark this. my mum has a soya dip which is with chillis and limau plus some other stuffs. salivating now! hehehe

Bunnies said...

Yuuuummmsss!!!! I also like this dish very much... Sigh, but it is not easy to find home reared chicken in Kuala Lumpur.

Anonymous said...

I saw corn fed chickens at Tong Hing in town. RM14/kilo. Have you tried it and how is it?

Terri said...

Oh my, Terri, does that look delicious. Sadly, I live in the "Tyson Brand" part of the U.S. and Tyson does not produce chickens without chemicals. And I think trying to find sand ginger would be fruitless. But I sure might try this anyway. Simple yet tasty.

Big Boys Oven said...

that dipping is classic! awesome!

joycezzz said...

The dip looks awesome...
didn't know boiled chicken is so easy to make... will try this combination one day! <3

Anonymous said...

My family in the UK also add soya sauce to the ginger/spring onion sauce. I didn't realise we were a minority(!) When in HK, the rest of the family also add soya sauce - although it's a 50/50 preference.
Great to see a recipe so similar to my mum's version! To name the points I've not seen all in the same recipe elsewhere - the chicken being corn-fed, bringing to a simmer (not boil) on the second boil, putting it into ice water after cooking and heating the oil till smoking before pouring it on the ginger & spring onion. The only additional thing she does is blanching the chicken at the start to remove impurities (or is that not necessary...?)
Thanks for posting! :)

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